V338: Green Acres Bustle Gown Skirt Progress

It's slow going over here in <a href="http://americanduchess.blogspot.com/search/label/1880%20Green%20Acres%20Gown">Green Acres</a>, partially due to laziness, and partially due to the omg-<i>howmuchyardage!?</i>-for-trims that comes along with many bustle projects.<br /><br />My original plan for the trimmeries on my underskirt is as follows:<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF7_AhLsWPwXgMdOkONvACLlFfVxQCKJtkalOc2we2Pb00LtIX9MX5Yfjeu1tVZ32mZvhg6xtRPOJZNAU2Mxqe5uPALI2bGSs4eNNhJeAJoQeBI1Y4DUI-Z_yhfeSS6UfntI-P2UmafaW1/s1600/bustle+skirt+12-20-12+(4+of+4).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgF7_AhLsWPwXgMdOkONvACLlFfVxQCKJtkalOc2we2Pb00LtIX9MX5Yfjeu1tVZ32mZvhg6xtRPOJZNAU2Mxqe5uPALI2bGSs4eNNhJeAJoQeBI1Y4DUI-Z_yhfeSS6UfntI-P2UmafaW1/s640/bustle+skirt+12-20-12+(4+of+4).jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figuring out how much yardage I needed for each type of trim</td></tr></tbody></table>I've done away with the flutes nearest the hem because they ended up not showing under the deep pleats.  The ruffle in the middle will become a ruched band instead of a free ruffle.  Otherwise, it's all-systems go.  I cut out all the strips of self fabric needed, and have been stitching them together, ironing in hems, and beginning the tedious task of pleating, fluting, and ruching.<br /><br />Before I could apply these trims, though, I had to mostly finish the skirt, and mark it for trim placement.  I decided to do this mostly flat (although my waistband has been attached - you could do it completely flat, though, and do the darts and gathers last), measuring up from the bound hem, and marking each placement line in chalk.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB8OeS-f-lKsIuwfTOnqXeSeI252PZDdBBU97QFw5RfeGFYfLutSoasIbARiIzADPYRBwX5vJndHFW6hxBH4nhj8r1JG-bB2_uFrxh3rECdQlhj5aZ7KYXzmSSN0fH-26DfAStY0gzwP6k/s1600/bustle+skirt+12-20-12+(1+of+4).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB8OeS-f-lKsIuwfTOnqXeSeI252PZDdBBU97QFw5RfeGFYfLutSoasIbARiIzADPYRBwX5vJndHFW6hxBH4nhj8r1JG-bB2_uFrxh3rECdQlhj5aZ7KYXzmSSN0fH-26DfAStY0gzwP6k/s640/bustle+skirt+12-20-12+(1+of+4).jpg" width="468" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lines marked in chalk</td></tr></tbody></table>I discovered an issue with the train on the skirt, once the whole thing was together - the back did not want to train nicely.  The back panel on the pattern is a straight rectangle, with the waist tightly gathered into the waistband.  I thought I could train it by cutting it longer, with the side gores adjusted to meet the additional length at back, but the whole thing needed more of an arced shape to work, so I applied a godet that will be covered in trim.  The godet could have been even larger for more spread.  Next time I will know to cut the shape of the hem on these narrow skirts in a more circular fashion.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT1n89SBg9WFAM8Bf0OjPE7x2L_4_kxGOQzN40jz9KH5i7BCrqgC7a5MKWkIc5A7r-BDFdLnlIQ5qSkh24yQMppzqcZABNxgeH_Tupq_9F4PmRLmIuRQCjNNYyUNxEkm7K8D8hJlzH5gY4/s1600/bustle+skirt+12-20-12+(2+of+4).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgT1n89SBg9WFAM8Bf0OjPE7x2L_4_kxGOQzN40jz9KH5i7BCrqgC7a5MKWkIc5A7r-BDFdLnlIQ5qSkh24yQMppzqcZABNxgeH_Tupq_9F4PmRLmIuRQCjNNYyUNxEkm7K8D8hJlzH5gY4/s640/bustle+skirt+12-20-12+(2+of+4).jpg" width="426" /></a></div><br />Other deets - the whole skirt is lined in lightweight cotton muslin, with a foot of hair canvas at the hem for stability and weight.  It weighs more-than-a-little, but the paper-thin Dupioni needed some structure beneath it, particularly to keep it from stressing too much at the top and hanging funny from the weight of the trims below.<br /><br />One last bit before I run off to pleat 102 inches of flounce - the flutes!  So...after my test piece, I went for the whole, huge, 190 inches of fluted trim.  I discovered that the practice does take, well, practice - there are many factors to consider, such as how wet the fabric is, and how hot the plate and iron are.  I initially used vinegar to set the pleats, but had better luck with spray starch.  The next time I will use quite a lot more starch - it didn't hurt the silk at all, thank goodness.  The biggest revelation, though, was the very last action - run a gathering stitch along the top edge of the flutes.  It transforms them from "meh" to "holy-wow-flutes!" and keeps them in place when you go to sew them onto your garment.  <i>The gathering stitch is the key</i>.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh75EFJd3FAqkMBvDE7XrXVuHKalwgZKPcd3yqfRuxNzvwdXZecloP3SJbJtoJuypm0A2RHP0mM7Nudou3rSk0Dp5nagjcTNEs2HbpIAqp6fhqRMCKt2BQe9zTC8pI_LJW5-XBk1QE0Axhd/s1600/bustle+skirt+12-20-12+(3+of+4).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh75EFJd3FAqkMBvDE7XrXVuHKalwgZKPcd3yqfRuxNzvwdXZecloP3SJbJtoJuypm0A2RHP0mM7Nudou3rSk0Dp5nagjcTNEs2HbpIAqp6fhqRMCKt2BQe9zTC8pI_LJW5-XBk1QE0Axhd/s640/bustle+skirt+12-20-12+(3+of+4).jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fluted trim, with the gathering stitch run along the top edge.</td></tr></tbody></table>

V338: Green Acres Bustle Gown Skirt Progress

It's slow going over here in Green Acres , partially due to laziness, and partially due to the omg- howmuchyardage!? -for-trims that com...

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V332: New Project: Giant "Green Acres" Bustle Gown

I am suffering from severe CADD (Costume A.D.D.) lately.  My <a href="http://americanduchess.blogspot.com/2012/12/v329-inspiring-1930s-frocks.html">'30s plaid Christmas dress</a> sits on the mannequin, nearly complete, but with the arrival of a giant roll of green silk, new Truly Victorian patterns, and a healthy dollop of inspiration, all I want to do is sewing a giant green bustle dress.<br /><br />I have made a bustle or two in the past, but it's not one of my major periods of study.  Pity, that, because I absolutely adore the styles, and I have far more opportunities for 1870s-80s dress up than 1770s-80s.  This dress will be used in an upcoming photo shoot for the <a href="http://www.american-duchess.com/edwardian-victorian-shoes-boots/tavistock-victorian-button-boot">"Tavistock" button boots</a>, as well, so the project has an element of theatricality to it, in that sense, and is all about texture, color, and mood.  Here is the initial inspiration:<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://eastmanimages.com/cuba"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://media.virbcdn.com/cdn_images/resize_1024x1024/95/PageImage-487049-1888866-cubagreeninterior2002.jpg" width="506" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://eastmanimages.com/cuba">Michael Eastman: Cuba: http://eastmanimages.com/cuba</a></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>Yep, it's a room, an incredible room.  That color!  I imagine a historical gown of the same color, overflowing with ACRES of pleats, frills, ribbons, beads, fringe, trims of all variety, all in that green, all in different textures.  These were my inspiration sketches:<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijAlqKyC8x0dFv14rpekH-mGS3DRABaqmXQPzQrAF-7_74cAYCxMUjooQv5yN4YnEyepBAQccF-aUsJa0h86-Q7NAsgWO3SGOqWlP4MMej2kDQKej6Nr103IRS0sBa0_aoyVssOVHOArlq/s1600/Green+bustle+12-11+(2+of+4).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijAlqKyC8x0dFv14rpekH-mGS3DRABaqmXQPzQrAF-7_74cAYCxMUjooQv5yN4YnEyepBAQccF-aUsJa0h86-Q7NAsgWO3SGOqWlP4MMej2kDQKej6Nr103IRS0sBa0_aoyVssOVHOArlq/s640/Green+bustle+12-11+(2+of+4).jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />I settled on something along this line:<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUXEZE_21ImaBS-_LgkEou5kYPP8Y2xwL4tGNFcfSe21J9D-oNjWEUSaSf03sDKjparU4QJY2X5mUQQsb9ZKXoTlvCwZHykIPRXV8wxs12Y7YMGzbBKYRp0gPBHtAZIy87u2fOSwuMk37U/s1600/Green+bustle+12-11+%25283+of+4%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiUXEZE_21ImaBS-_LgkEou5kYPP8Y2xwL4tGNFcfSe21J9D-oNjWEUSaSf03sDKjparU4QJY2X5mUQQsb9ZKXoTlvCwZHykIPRXV8wxs12Y7YMGzbBKYRp0gPBHtAZIy87u2fOSwuMk37U/s640/Green+bustle+12-11+%25283+of+4%2529.jpg" width="516" /></a></div><br />I am using Truly Victorian patterns <a href="http://www.trulyvictorian.net/tvxcart/product.php?productid=29&cat=5&page=1">TV261 (skirt)</a>, <a href="http://www.trulyvictorian.net/tvxcart/product.php?productid=67&cat=5&page=1">TV364 (apron)</a>, and <a href="http://www.trulyvictorian.net/tvxcart/product.php?productid=50&cat=4&page=1">TV420 (bodice)</a> with some alterations.  The skirt pattern also makes a great petticoat, which I whipped up last night, shown here over a <a href="http://americanduchess.blogspot.com/2012/07/v211-i-like-big-bustles-and-i-cannot-lie.html">wire collapsible bustle</a>, bump pad, and two petticoats:<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMkDWk9xJaO2HYKxJwN7CC8QswjLsUFAud45WitN6XApiKFjDLkVlynhjCZ5sOUh_dpq0uLoGZM4Sy_pp1qiaDiNp2Dy1lBbOHUuyimc1PPE0_Btto6jqY_uaIgjyiI8rPypFzLjTGfYXg/s1600/Green+bustle+12-11+%25281+of+4%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMkDWk9xJaO2HYKxJwN7CC8QswjLsUFAud45WitN6XApiKFjDLkVlynhjCZ5sOUh_dpq0uLoGZM4Sy_pp1qiaDiNp2Dy1lBbOHUuyimc1PPE0_Btto6jqY_uaIgjyiI8rPypFzLjTGfYXg/s640/Green+bustle+12-11+%25281+of+4%2529.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><br />The fabric I have chosen is a rich green raw silk.  I know slubby silk is not accurate for historical reproductions, but I chose this fabric for three reasons: color, texture (this gown is geared towards theatricality and how it will look in the photo shoot), and price.  I ordered 15 yards and I'm nervous it won't be enough. <br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9gnwHo1W3OrkHCZQiN9dl6pC2qfkoG2lnYAkUXWkWS_QzHiUX773DvNiQLQRNQcuJEpMyiblMEXo-ix4haE9m7_0g0iBC5lQNArtOk1xFazsLIZYYxfoTJ5Dk5yj8OuIeNqc8tqcQ9x4e/s1600/Green+bustle+12-11+%25284+of+4%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9gnwHo1W3OrkHCZQiN9dl6pC2qfkoG2lnYAkUXWkWS_QzHiUX773DvNiQLQRNQcuJEpMyiblMEXo-ix4haE9m7_0g0iBC5lQNArtOk1xFazsLIZYYxfoTJ5Dk5yj8OuIeNqc8tqcQ9x4e/s640/Green+bustle+12-11+%25284+of+4%2529.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><br />In addition to the silk I would like to use a matching or black velvet ribbon, and a matching or black sheer of some sort, perhaps a net or a point d'esprit, for effects of this nature:<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/105418?rpp=60&pg=4&ao=on&ft=evening+gown&when=A.D.+1800-1900&what=Costume&pos=211"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/49.3.31ab_F.jpg" width="412" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/105418?rpp=60&pg=4&ao=on&ft=evening+gown&when=A.D.+1800-1900&what=Costume&pos=211">The Met, 1881-84</a></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>I have also acquired an antique fluter, also called a crimper.  It has not arrived yet, but I'm looking forward to testing it out, and fluting a bajillion yards of green silk trim - more on that later. :-)  This is the one I bought on eBay:<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO-aTQ1RwjAl1kuJADf3BpHq2FeDWhaImpiJep0jnVefTaWArvS_RtGmr84FDnHsvYyz-NzTXz4NzfFI_GPZFu7rf_06qisu58UGjdQSl-BWiMXNbQKpkX0ZRO66QswYCSoH-2HIGCGvnr/s1600/Geneva+fluter+12-16-12+(3+of+5).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="350" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO-aTQ1RwjAl1kuJADf3BpHq2FeDWhaImpiJep0jnVefTaWArvS_RtGmr84FDnHsvYyz-NzTXz4NzfFI_GPZFu7rf_06qisu58UGjdQSl-BWiMXNbQKpkX0ZRO66QswYCSoH-2HIGCGvnr/s1600/Geneva+fluter+12-16-12+(3+of+5).jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />So...back to the sewing room!

V332: New Project: Giant "Green Acres" Bustle Gown

I am suffering from severe CADD (Costume A.D.D.) lately.  My '30s plaid Christmas dress sits on the mannequin, nearly complete, but wit...

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V329: Inspiring 1930s Frocks

I admit, I haven't been very good about my "Vintage365" blog-a-day.  I've been fallin' down on the job (but only because I'm so dang busy with everything else!).<br /><br />Anywho, I'm working on a 1930s Holiday Dress, and thought it'd be fun to take a gander at some lovely 1930s outfits.  I am using the <a href="http://www.decadesofstyle.com/vintage-patterns-1930s/3007-1930s-button-dress">Decades of Style "Button Dress" pattern</a> I bought at Costume College.  I haven't made the pattern before, but so-far-so-good, although I have taken it in considerably at the side-seams.  Here is my concept sketch-up:<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg543XGNoQuLfP0r3goMo-7vU_CsV5rFID7lMgN06gFjp81xKrgJBeW22JghLWjzBALrOdw-Jp-PBWF_Ll-eWDs_eOvRvChN2KWKH4FLD-j0YMjR8IeU8qO4nzWTUwaehyphenhyphenoP8AaA_X-v02T/s1600/DOS-3007-F.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg543XGNoQuLfP0r3goMo-7vU_CsV5rFID7lMgN06gFjp81xKrgJBeW22JghLWjzBALrOdw-Jp-PBWF_Ll-eWDs_eOvRvChN2KWKH4FLD-j0YMjR8IeU8qO4nzWTUwaehyphenhyphenoP8AaA_X-v02T/s640/DOS-3007-F.jpg" width="494" /></a></div><br />My plaid is much larger than I've drawn it here.  I've used a really lightweight cotton for the sleeves, and have been kicking around the idea of gathering them onto a band, to turn them into little puff sleeves instead of butterfly sleeves (just my style preference).  I will post pictures of the finished item later.<br /><br />For now, here are some other 1930s dresses...<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://johoffberg.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/1-coats.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://johoffberg.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/1-coats.jpg" width="396" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://johoffberg.com/tag/1930s/">Via</a></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://img1.etsystatic.com/007/1/6063039/il_570xN.394631421_qiq7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://img1.etsystatic.com/007/1/6063039/il_570xN.394631421_qiq7.jpg" width="362" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.etsy.com/listing/114810624/1930s-womens-plus-size-dress-vintage">Via</a> - this is an original pattern similar to <a href="http://www.wearinghistorypatterns.com/moderne-1930s-art-deco-dress-pattern/">Wearing History's "Moderne"</a></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://img1.etsystatic.com/003/1/6063039/il_570xN.370112949_c64a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://img1.etsystatic.com/003/1/6063039/il_570xN.370112949_c64a.jpg" width="416" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.etsy.com/listing/108085356/1930s-misses-one-piece-dress-vintage">Via</a></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://img0.etsystatic.com/001/1/6063039/il_570xN.361242252_7n7n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://img0.etsystatic.com/001/1/6063039/il_570xN.361242252_7n7n.jpg" width="354" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.etsy.com/listing/105664376/1930s-misses-two-piece-dress-vintage">Via</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br />

V329: Inspiring 1930s Frocks

I admit, I haven't been very good about my "Vintage365" blog-a-day.  I've been fallin' down on the job (but only becau...

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