The Angel Wing Bum, 1785

Save for one tiny bit of stomacher fabric, my wedding gown is DONE! *happy dance*<br /><br />Last week, when sorting out hems and skirt volumes, I decided I needed a new bum.  The en fourreau-ish-ness of the center back on the redingote didn't want to lay nicely over more hefty bums, so I was looking for something that would allow that portion of the dress to lay smoothly, while providing oomph to the rest of the skirt.<br /><br />I immediately thought of <a href="http://demodecouture.com/">Demode's</a> excellent research, <a href="http://demodecouture.com/late-18th-century-skirt-supports/">"Late 18th Cenury Skirt Supports: Bums, Rumps, & Culs,"</a> so went scurrying off to brush up on what sort of pa-dunk-a-dunk I needed to get the shape I wanted.<br /><br />I was intrigued by the many bum styles satirized in this fabulous <a href="http://images.library.yale.edu/walpoleweb/oneitem.asp?imageId=lwlpr05790">Rushworth print, from 1785, in the Lewis Walpole Library</a>:<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKHvWdbsLkOJqNSgEZDbY4dieUZVcQBPCyXEMRmOE4bf6YIEXHIU12X5jcmsi_GvH7bhaFTp-wsW60vOiNAiim7f1RMxk1fh_pnHJlZdV_8prNk3fGCNXMwbvvoxgOPeQ-M3e8RotNWsiY/s1600/lwlpr05790.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="456" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKHvWdbsLkOJqNSgEZDbY4dieUZVcQBPCyXEMRmOE4bf6YIEXHIU12X5jcmsi_GvH7bhaFTp-wsW60vOiNAiim7f1RMxk1fh_pnHJlZdV_8prNk3fGCNXMwbvvoxgOPeQ-M3e8RotNWsiY/s640/lwlpr05790.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />The bum in the top row, second from the right, caught my attention. In my brainbox I imagined it creating flare at the sides, while remaining flat-ish at the center back, and helping the skirt to transition smoothly from the waist into a backward sweep.<br /><br />So here's my take on it:<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2BuMbLxnYWfLQJo_885ZYCBDkJBcCr-LZfZisPDCwX1uKZv0XA6spwwINaMw1ROZSLjmyl3IKn4egfAk48zJY4hkVt-Il26wqphs1fZ-RrHpjN-TrnYWhhFCNAOFh5FPsDTSmFZsZoIqW/s1600/angel+bum+%25283+of+3%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2BuMbLxnYWfLQJo_885ZYCBDkJBcCr-LZfZisPDCwX1uKZv0XA6spwwINaMw1ROZSLjmyl3IKn4egfAk48zJY4hkVt-Il26wqphs1fZ-RrHpjN-TrnYWhhFCNAOFh5FPsDTSmFZsZoIqW/s640/angel+bum+%25283+of+3%2529.jpg" width="426" /></a></div><br />It came out quite large, and I have a second, small bum stacked beneath it to angle the whole thing back a bit more.  This stacked bum method reminds me of the Elizabethan wheel farthingales shown in <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0887346103/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0887346103&linkCode=as2&tag=laureeske-20">Period Costume for Stage & Screen</a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=laureeske-20&l=as2&o=1&a=0887346103" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" /> and <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0896762556/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=0896762556&linkCode=as2&tag=laureeske-20">The Tudor Tailor</a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="http://ir-na.amazon-adsystem.com/e/ir?t=laureeske-20&l=as2&o=1&a=0896762556" style="border: none !important; margin: 0px !important;" width="1" />, but it's also not so different from 19th century elliptical hoops.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6cHKWHAL_iQlUDSn5K4NJIeQs3xBY7lzuRJly8xwHnml0PASFJJq25CFBiEmZJSUWbQ9RsOXSLfc3fNUBYUowi9_Fyxda48MXyM75_XPgK8AZrChWetfcpyXsV0fxSSyS0toNo0IBntLf/s1600/angel+bum+%25281+of+3%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6cHKWHAL_iQlUDSn5K4NJIeQs3xBY7lzuRJly8xwHnml0PASFJJq25CFBiEmZJSUWbQ9RsOXSLfc3fNUBYUowi9_Fyxda48MXyM75_XPgK8AZrChWetfcpyXsV0fxSSyS0toNo0IBntLf/s640/angel+bum+%25281+of+3%2529.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Please excuse my messy messy room - shown here from the inside out is: small bum, angel wing bum, ugly puffer, synthetic taffeta petticoat, and silk taffeta petticoat.</td></tr></tbody></table>It definitely does the trick. I'm not sure it's the most efficient way to achieve this shape, but it generally worked, so I'm happy.  I can see how variations on this design could achieve quite different results - maybe the wings wrap around the waist more, so there's padding more on the hips, or the center back pillowy bit is stuffed more, instead of left quite soft the way I did it. That's the difficult part about working from a cartoon - the shapes are exaggerated, and it's impossible to tell what the stuffing was like. It served as a nice inspiration, though, and I'd love to try out some of those other crazy-looking bums hanging on the wall!

The Angel Wing Bum, 1785

Save for one tiny bit of stomacher fabric, my wedding gown is DONE! *happy dance* Last week, when sorting out hems and skirt volumes, I deci...

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Victorian & Edwardian Stockings

<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://www.squidoo.com/19th-century"><img border="0" src="http://i2.squidoocdn.com/resize/squidoo_images/-1/draft_lens17266791module145767141photo_129454512312.jpg" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.squidoo.com/19th-century">Via - I'll take any of these, please.</a></td></tr></tbody></table>Throughout history, people have worn some pretty spectacular hosiery.  I'm tickled today when I see fantastic socks for sale (and I often buy them, too), because it's really nothing new.  We are all familiar with 18th century clocked stockings, but things didn't get mundane after that century's passing.  On the contrary!  Check out what the Victorians and Edwardians were wearing...<br /><br /><b><u>Lace Inserts - c. 1900-1910</u></b><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80094471?rpp=20&pg=1&ao=on&ft=stockings&when=A.D.+1900-present&pos=5"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/53.267.21a-b_CP4.jpg" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80094471?rpp=20&pg=1&ao=on&ft=stockings&when=A.D.+1900-present&pos=5">The Met - lace inset stockings, 1900-1910</a></td></tr></tbody></table><span id="goog_1006103992"></span><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Victorian-Black-Silk-Stockings-w-Oval-Inset-of-Chantilly-Lace-/230937742573?pt=Vintage_Women_s_Clothing&hash=item35c4f64ced"><img border="0" src="http://www.shastasvintageemporium.com/2004/d5488.jpg" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Victorian-Black-Silk-Stockings-w-Oval-Inset-of-Chantilly-Lace-/230937742573?pt=Vintage_Women_s_Clothing&hash=item35c4f64ced">Via eBay - chantilly lace inserts, typical of Late Victorian/Edwardian</a></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80094512?rpp=20&pg=1&ao=on&ft=stockings&when=A.D.+1900-present&pos=6"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/55.144.15a-b_CP4.jpg" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80094512?rpp=20&pg=1&ao=on&ft=stockings&when=A.D.+1900-present&pos=6">The Met - another pair with lace inserts, 1900-1910</a></td></tr></tbody></table><b><u>Eye-bursting Patterns - 1870s</u></b><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80001902?rpp=20&pg=2&ft=*&what=Hosiery&pos=35"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1993.1.3ab.jpg" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80001902?rpp=20&pg=2&ft=*&what=Hosiery&pos=35">The Met - Bold patterns were popular in the 1870s</a></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/80001905"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1993.1.6ab.jpg" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/80001905">The Met - 1873 - two different patterns in the same colors.  Zowy!</a></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80001907?rpp=20&pg=3&ft=stockings&when=A.D.+1800-1900&pos=50"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1993.1.8.jpg" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80001907?rpp=20&pg=3&ft=stockings&when=A.D.+1800-1900&pos=50">The Met - 1870. My particular Victorian favorite, because you can still find these in stores today</a></td></tr></tbody></table><b><u><span id="goog_1006103993"></span>"Old-Fashioned" Clocks - 1800-1860s</u></b><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80054785?rpp=20&pg=7&ft=stockings&when=A.D.+1800-1900&pos=137"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/CI54.7.4ab.jpg" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80054785?rpp=20&pg=7&ft=stockings&when=A.D.+1800-1900&pos=137">The Met - labeled "19th century"</a></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80054778?rpp=20&pg=2&ft=stockings&when=A.D.+1800-1900&pos=21"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/CI54.41.2ab.jpg" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80054778?rpp=20&pg=2&ft=stockings&when=A.D.+1800-1900&pos=21">The Met - 1865. These look 18th century, but are 100 years younger</a></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80054662?rpp=20&pg=6&ft=stockings&when=A.D.+1800-1900&pos=103"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/CI41.117.11ab.jpg" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80054662?rpp=20&pg=6&ft=stockings&when=A.D.+1800-1900&pos=103">The Met - 1859</a></td></tr></tbody></table><b><u>Geometrics - 1890s-1900</u></b><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80054744?rpp=20&pg=8&ao=on&ft=stockings&when=A.D.+1900-present&pos=157"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/CI55.37.2ab.jpg" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80054744?rpp=20&pg=8&ao=on&ft=stockings&when=A.D.+1900-present&pos=157">The Met - 1900</a></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/CI41.20.6ab.jpg"><img border="0" height="640" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/CI41.20.6ab.jpg" width="246" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/CI41.20.6ab.jpg">The Met - 1890s</a></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80038177?rpp=20&pg=4&ao=on&ft=stockings&when=A.D.+1800-1900&pos=77"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/CI44.4.1ab.jpg" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80038177?rpp=20&pg=4&ao=on&ft=stockings&when=A.D.+1800-1900&pos=77">The Met - 1890s, and another style still available today</a></td></tr></tbody></table><b><u>Repeated Pattern - 1800-early 20th c. (into 1920s too)</u></b><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80027125?rpp=20&pg=3&ao=on&ft=stockings&when=A.D.+1800-1900&pos=47"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/CIX54.7.1ab.jpg" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80027125?rpp=20&pg=3&ao=on&ft=stockings&when=A.D.+1800-1900&pos=47">The Met - 1887</a></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80054674?rpp=20&pg=6&ao=on&ft=stockings&when=A.D.+1800-1900&pos=114"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/CI41.20.5ab.jpg" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80054674?rpp=20&pg=6&ao=on&ft=stockings&when=A.D.+1800-1900&pos=114">The Met - 1890s</a></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80001911?rpp=20&pg=8&ao=on&ft=stockings&when=A.D.+1900-present&pos=156"><img border="0" src="http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/ci/web-large/1993.1.12.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/Collections/search-the-collections/80001911?rpp=20&pg=8&ao=on&ft=stockings&when=A.D.+1900-present&pos=156">The Met - 1900</a></td></tr></tbody></table>So when you're out shopping for period socks, keep these ideas in mind.  Occasionally you'll run into some surprisingly historical hosiery out there, like these examples...<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://www.sockdreams.com/products/socks-special-collections/stripes/vertical-stripe-tabi-otk:8592"><img border="0" src="http://www.sockdreams.com/image_upload/product_variety_big_8592.jpg?c=" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.sockdreams.com/products/socks-special-collections/stripes/vertical-stripe-tabi-otk:8592">Sock Dreams - striped socks, similar to 1890s</a></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://www.sockdreams.com/products/socks/over-the-knee/mermaid-armor-over-the-knee:11595"><img border="0" src="http://www.sockdreams.com/image_upload/product_variety_big_11595_725_3.jpg" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.sockdreams.com/products/socks/over-the-knee/mermaid-armor-over-the-knee:11595">Sock Dreams - a bold design, similar to 1870s styles</a></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://www.modcloth.com/shop/tights-socks/that-s-my-queue-socks-in-red-and-blue?utm_campaign=pdp_share&utm_medium=share&utm_source=pinterest"><img border="0" src="http://media-cache-ak1.pinimg.com/736x/e4/76/11/e476118d89aa4d4587c6d9d88b8aa385.jpg" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.modcloth.com/shop/tights-socks/that-s-my-queue-socks-in-red-and-blue?utm_campaign=pdp_share&utm_medium=share&utm_source=pinterest">Modcloth - similar to 1900-1910 styles</a></td></tr></tbody></table>There's also the <a href="http://www.american-duchess.com/historic-shoe-buckles-accessories">American Duchess range</a>, which will be expanding from 18th c. and early 19th c. into Victorian and Edwardian for this Holiday Season. :-)<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><span style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><a href="http://www.american-duchess.com/"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-frc1/600563_10151729669297034_1757419256_n.jpg" width="640" /></a></span></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.american-duchess.com/">American Duchess Edwardian/1920s silk stockings - coming soon.</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br />

Victorian & Edwardian Stockings

Via - I'll take any of these, please. Throughout history, people have worn some pretty spectacular hosiery.  I'm tickled today when ...

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Finished Project: 18th Century Grand Panier

<a href="http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/A1UXKJXSSXL._SL1500_.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/A1UXKJXSSXL._SL1500_.jpg" width="143" /></a>And my, what a big panier it is!<br /><br />I purchased the now-out-of-print Simplicity 3635 pattern on eBay a few weeks back.  The package contains patterns for stays, pockets, a chemise, and a full panier, all of which actually look surprisingly spot-on.  It's a shame this pattern is out of print, but I can see why - it isn't an easy throw-together for the casual Halloween costumer, though is straightforward for us wacky historical types.<br /><br />I'm really pleased with the results of this panier.  The pattern was easy to put together, though time consuming.  Mine is made from plain ole cotton, single layer with the boning channels made from self fabric cut on the straight, and turned using a bias tape maker.<br /><br />I deviated a bit, as always - instead of the drawstring waist, I gathered the top of the panier into a waistband with a buckle closure on the side.  I also added an additional hoop at the hem, and I may go back and add a flounce all around as well.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIXYGag4BrkQMnFDLXK7ZMmqLNJUlIMq0dxdF1el9ABT6WgTpISq7t20nt8DDy16kqCwoXHfoWezBy-Q8Vxlatcp5ZrljCDgpOax2Tco_kbXRS_PM8Ig1BISAmIXvBhtnWnXt6wZMQ1RAD/s1600/grand+panier+Ap2013+(3+of+3).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIXYGag4BrkQMnFDLXK7ZMmqLNJUlIMq0dxdF1el9ABT6WgTpISq7t20nt8DDy16kqCwoXHfoWezBy-Q8Vxlatcp5ZrljCDgpOax2Tco_kbXRS_PM8Ig1BISAmIXvBhtnWnXt6wZMQ1RAD/s1600/grand+panier+Ap2013+(3+of+3).jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simplicity 3635 Grand Panier (please ignore those Regency stays, btw)</td></tr></tbody></table>My favorite part of this panier, besides its monumental size, is that it is made of zip ties.  Yes, zip ties.  Really huge ones, like, three feet long ones from Home Depot.  The largest hoop at the hem took three of these mega zip ties taped together with duck tape.  Initially I was concerned about collapse, but once the panier had all its hoops, and the interior tapes tied, it became very stable.  Here I have piled two basic 18th c. petticoats on top (obviously they are not made for a panier!), and the panier is just fine.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi04qEqNtbSY5RMzDtspK-ZL33UONwRSr_Wky3MqLHs1aETDBN3rimV6kMoIfCWtU_lC7YVBUJddpJQLH785w4XUIwvjTbMoDYAm6Z39d25UTdu4TXhpQjLdY6BzCTMRU5oBm6Y9M-sTiPw/s1600/grand+panier+Ap2013+%25282+of+3%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi04qEqNtbSY5RMzDtspK-ZL33UONwRSr_Wky3MqLHs1aETDBN3rimV6kMoIfCWtU_lC7YVBUJddpJQLH785w4XUIwvjTbMoDYAm6Z39d25UTdu4TXhpQjLdY6BzCTMRU5oBm6Y9M-sTiPw/s1600/grand+panier+Ap2013+%25282+of+3%2529.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One flounced petticoat on top - this is the heaviest piece.</td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisSSuPT19BfsDASqNTTr0Ayr-z8F72Ha4bnzruRJQV1vAXRSeQkLwVbS9afGsDfSYtHpekC8pczWQ2KEfRaYgXDQOKZbuI6lETXyjuOY-6sJkvor6T2iNOb2v73zGXXxY8GdVWDoAcQrqQ/s1600/grand+panier+Ap2013+%25281+of+3%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisSSuPT19BfsDASqNTTr0Ayr-z8F72Ha4bnzruRJQV1vAXRSeQkLwVbS9afGsDfSYtHpekC8pczWQ2KEfRaYgXDQOKZbuI6lETXyjuOY-6sJkvor6T2iNOb2v73zGXXxY8GdVWDoAcQrqQ/s1600/grand+panier+Ap2013+%25281+of+3%2529.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A lightweight cotton petticoat for an additional layer.  To fix the issue at the sides, I will need to make a petticoat specifically for the panier.</td></tr></tbody></table>I most definitely recommend this pattern.  You can find it on eBay and Etsy, and although the price is a little high, in my opinion it is worth it.  You get quite a lot of bang for your buck, and it is an easy introduction to this large structure.

Finished Project: 18th Century Grand Panier

And my, what a big panier it is! I purchased the now-out-of-print Simplicity 3635 pattern on eBay a few weeks back.  The package contains pa...

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Finished Project: Regency Half Stays

<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPIahJqp32sEwfkVYEGmTTMjlSHRfpyHRwB1yPAOvIpKtA6XyHtdTCXO3gEvAShh4zbdfmjCvcwJqbmbZFhOvw9PlCA9fsMEBx0ivu-o6Uc2JFDm96OwAZrSLZeeBIz-GFKjaXp16kYziU/s1600/Regency+half+stays+(2+of+4).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPIahJqp32sEwfkVYEGmTTMjlSHRfpyHRwB1yPAOvIpKtA6XyHtdTCXO3gEvAShh4zbdfmjCvcwJqbmbZFhOvw9PlCA9fsMEBx0ivu-o6Uc2JFDm96OwAZrSLZeeBIz-GFKjaXp16kYziU/s1600/Regency+half+stays+(2+of+4).jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">They ain't pretty, but they seem to get the job done...</td></tr></tbody></table>I've finally finished something!  I've been experimenting with Regency stays for a bit, trying out different designs, and I think I've got the silhouette I want.<br /><br />Some time ago we talked about <a href="http://americanduchess.blogspot.com/2013/03/problem-solving-with-regency-stays.html">Regency boobs</a>, and how high and mighty they were (and how hard to achieve).  In my experiments, I found these things to be true (for me anyway):<br /><br /><ul><li>Cording or boning beneath the bust cups will help keep the bust in place</li><li>A busk will help raise and separate the bust, but needs to be long enough - that is, just some boning in the front edges of very short stays won't work - the busk needs to extend down the front of the body.  The 9 inch paint-stirring sticks from Home Depot are a good length (or longer, for long stays).</li><li>Using a drawstring to pull in the top of the bust cups will also control the oomph of the bust, as well as the line of the stays under the gown.</li></ul><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghGk3AVuE-pOIpG25q65Dp7eJB_3pDh9XlOkczJ7DJW4vRKnr9xA2VbXI0Qm8yqtcLolTY-6c1jifIYiRNE19YuU8ZHJtJEH8R3RWuhIQ_lgw3HSGh91C9Yvy3Tm8-9LYCvFyc1oWnuLJE/s1600/Regency+half+stays+%25283+of+4%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghGk3AVuE-pOIpG25q65Dp7eJB_3pDh9XlOkczJ7DJW4vRKnr9xA2VbXI0Qm8yqtcLolTY-6c1jifIYiRNE19YuU8ZHJtJEH8R3RWuhIQ_lgw3HSGh91C9Yvy3Tm8-9LYCvFyc1oWnuLJE/s1600/Regency+half+stays+%25283+of+4%2529.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Drawstring bust cups</td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div>Regency stays are strategic, a departure from earlier varieties that sortof just pushed and pulled the body into position.  They're not laced tightly, because the aim was not to reduce the waist.</div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL83Sm-RjgEFbypaBC-CrlxmMTgj_qG-fIoxHnVP8X_ood4gldfay2LKWhiZDkEedh5QYnhDVtctaN6RYHbuR486nOnQuKN1gQ6PYNAzI4JLLmSgNAvhGWy_MXnrYQdSn8GjtgRf1QO-Of/s1600/Regency+half+stays+%25284+of+4%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjL83Sm-RjgEFbypaBC-CrlxmMTgj_qG-fIoxHnVP8X_ood4gldfay2LKWhiZDkEedh5QYnhDVtctaN6RYHbuR486nOnQuKN1gQ6PYNAzI4JLLmSgNAvhGWy_MXnrYQdSn8GjtgRf1QO-Of/s1600/Regency+half+stays+%25284+of+4%2529.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Laced in back.</td></tr></tbody></table><div>I've made mine waist length, laced in back - this is so the front busk can work effectively.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div>The other particulars:</div><div><ul><li>Cotton muslin lined in cotton osnaburg</li><li>Corded with hemp, and zip ties for the CF and CB closure</li><li>Hand bound eyelets in back (my first, yay!)</li><li>Bound in self bias.</li></ul></div>

Finished Project: Regency Half Stays

They ain't pretty, but they seem to get the job done... I've finally finished something!  I've been experimenting with Regency s...

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How Wide Should Your 18th Century Panniers Be?

<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>I've set out on the adventure of making a Grand Pannier to wear under voluminous 18th century apparel, and the first question that came to mind is - how wide was the typical pannier?<br /><br />I thought perhaps they ran the gamut (and they do), but the more I looked at various mid-18th century gowns, the more I noticed the same proportions.<br /><br />Proportion in historical costume is just as important today as it was then.  Proportioned garments are why that 1760s Robe a la Francaise looks itty-bitty, but actually has a 30 inch waist.  Too wide in the panniers didn't seem to be a problem, but too narrow does not flatter the figure.<br /><br />So what are these magical proportions?<br /><br /><b><span style="font-size: large;">Thirds and Quarters.</span></b><br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><b>The A, B, and C boxes represent the thirds</b> - the blue box in the center is the width of the waist (your waist measurement divided by two).  The yellow boxes roughly measure the distance from the side seams to where the pannier begins to slope downwards.  Surprise!  The blue and yellow boxes are the same size. The length of each side of the pannier is also half the circumference of your waist.<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0T2aS_K79Ot87-9ieeuYu3dwzp3R0dSGpzIvCm1MIDahZuIzuH2bylEzvA_BmkB7o5-sEFjjQWMf2Ry8IgQrcZIcM6UaGOOhNLkPoPE7iScWqwbeRL4BgkIOjOtHrOGW7zH7PH-DuMIkC/s1600/1a3d92ec943ab9069b9f6267e4e98a56.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0T2aS_K79Ot87-9ieeuYu3dwzp3R0dSGpzIvCm1MIDahZuIzuH2bylEzvA_BmkB7o5-sEFjjQWMf2Ry8IgQrcZIcM6UaGOOhNLkPoPE7iScWqwbeRL4BgkIOjOtHrOGW7zH7PH-DuMIkC/s640/1a3d92ec943ab9069b9f6267e4e98a56.jpg" width="422" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHgAKhCq2eDVkxcpT4-XQDaggOIyaR8O_HixlG5A0gtf2zA1xKAPvELIhizo6THmm6O42ejvgdDrUtrn1df1laOjQt3Jr1_s2EWmEoFPXW2OhgpcfjVqs8DOyWu2QM_hQC9ZFW1PhYM-rb/s1600/714ad4abb5d8e73368d69cbc3e60e5f6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHgAKhCq2eDVkxcpT4-XQDaggOIyaR8O_HixlG5A0gtf2zA1xKAPvELIhizo6THmm6O42ejvgdDrUtrn1df1laOjQt3Jr1_s2EWmEoFPXW2OhgpcfjVqs8DOyWu2QM_hQC9ZFW1PhYM-rb/s640/714ad4abb5d8e73368d69cbc3e60e5f6.jpg" width="478" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP-xpTjqgxqLQcvTQdchR-idfR98cNDfq8AMXEW_QLK3FWizoVRmu18d-G2LYzx44uiaoTAopgliMiZ-S0MbKBJB7ogHN5nGhDDKLhILpafk9-YyUxzfFZly_oNa55BoAWeQIJmn01O-z9/s1600/836896aae26e92e8777394402a6a1d3c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiP-xpTjqgxqLQcvTQdchR-idfR98cNDfq8AMXEW_QLK3FWizoVRmu18d-G2LYzx44uiaoTAopgliMiZ-S0MbKBJB7ogHN5nGhDDKLhILpafk9-YyUxzfFZly_oNa55BoAWeQIJmn01O-z9/s640/836896aae26e92e8777394402a6a1d3c.jpg" width="484" /></a></div><br /><b>The 1, 2, 3, and 4 on the bottom are the quarters</b> - these divide the hem of the skirt into four parts.  These parts are roughly equal to the width of your shoulders.<br /><br />You can use Thirds and Quarters to break down the width of the hoops in your pannier, too.  For instance, my bottom hoop will be 2 thirds added to two quarters, like this:<br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTmzIECqTrqudFk_uXuNT9eRE1PIld2Mdfgm9nU8YIMdnBHKUiC0SK700rKFh67GBoyTo2DVYFGO3hqDqfrMnRp2IxHqTO5dkQVPvxnm821fu2FQ94dGnWxTAKfyyUt9x-wdZm5TLIR5dE/s1600/pannier+widths.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTmzIECqTrqudFk_uXuNT9eRE1PIld2Mdfgm9nU8YIMdnBHKUiC0SK700rKFh67GBoyTo2DVYFGO3hqDqfrMnRp2IxHqTO5dkQVPvxnm821fu2FQ94dGnWxTAKfyyUt9x-wdZm5TLIR5dE/s640/pannier+widths.jpg" width="484" /></a></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br />So with these measurements, I know that my pannier, at the top, will be 39 inches across, and my bottom hoop 54 inches across.  Multiply each of these by two, to account for front and back, and that will help determine the length of your pannier hoops. (You will need to add the depth to this front/back measurement, or else you pannier, when wrangled into hooped position, will "shrink")<br /><br />Whether you are robust or thin, this proportion should work for you.<br /><br />If your waist is 36 inches, then your grand pannier should be 54 inches across at the waist.<br /><br />If your waist is 20 inches, then your grand pannier should be 30 inches across at the waist.<br /><br />These are not hard and fast rules, just some things to consider when planning your side-hooped ensembles.  Remember, bigger is always fine, but too narrow and you may not be displaying yourself or your gown in the best way.  

How Wide Should Your 18th Century Panniers Be?

I've set out on the adventure of making a Grand Pannier to wear under voluminous 18th century apparel, and the first question that came ...

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V357: Beginning Corset Training - Day 1

My New Years Resolution for 2013 is to experiment with corset training.  Nothing crazy.  Nothing extreme. I'm just curious about the effect consistent pressure on the natural waist will have on my very modern body.<br /><br />Anyone who studies historical costuming will notice the quite large <a href="http://americanduchess.blogspot.com/2013/01/v354-antique-and-vintage-proportion-you.html">differences in proportion</a> throughout different periods.  We come to expect an exaggerated difference in Victorian proportion, because we know they wore corsets, but there is also a rather large difference between 1950s proportion and now.  Why is this?<br /><br />The answer is quite simple - we no longer wear anything tight around our waists.  No really - think about it - with the exception of the occasional off-the-rack dress or pencil skirt, next to nothing in ready-to-wear clothing is designed to fit at your natural waist.  Sewing patterns from the major pattern companies don't even fit at the natural waist.<br /><br />The effect this has on our modern bodies is that there is no constriction to the waist whatsoever, and so it is free to do as it likes (not necessarily a bad thing).  If you are like me, and you have a sweet tooth, or a Jack-In-The-Box tooth, then that nipped-in waist may go out the door rather quickly.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOyQ4LzEn4L5hius2ZKrTpYL6HjThyphenhyphen2zfTDyNOJgBYTPW-JRzocVtau5fHiDrsGrE5frUJ1Kw7DKY793Dk4BXcI0ocLed6mHuPawRYIAW6k7CQD-wyAtVNCjJD3wyoOTzLFbEk_CMXiufE/s1600/corset+training+start+1-20-13+(1+of+2).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOyQ4LzEn4L5hius2ZKrTpYL6HjThyphenhyphen2zfTDyNOJgBYTPW-JRzocVtau5fHiDrsGrE5frUJ1Kw7DKY793Dk4BXcI0ocLed6mHuPawRYIAW6k7CQD-wyAtVNCjJD3wyoOTzLFbEk_CMXiufE/s640/corset+training+start+1-20-13+(1+of+2).jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Here is my body.  I am a tube.  This is the result of low-rise jeans</td></tr></tbody></table>So I'm curious to see what effect a confined waist has on my body.  I'm also interested to see if this day-to-day training will have an effect on my costumed silhouette, as I have read that corset training allows one to reduce the waist far more than previously, when wearing a corset.<br /><br />My current measurements, here for the public, are:<br /><br /><ul><li>Natural un-bound waist - 28 inches</li><li>Victorian corseted waist - 27 inches (or 26 if I really squeeze)</li><li>My goal - 25 inches</li><li>My extreme goal - 24 inches</li></ul><br />I've started off with a very simple, light-weight corset I bought on eBay.  It's no great thing, and cost less than a pair of jeans, but it came with a steel busk, and is the proportion I wanted - an underbust with a short length - to be able to wear with jeans and under sweaters every day, without being noticeable.  By no means is this a work of corsetry art, but it fits as well as my old Victorian, my own make, and reduces my waist gently and comfortably to 27 inches.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjEJ3Z2oceHCM6EX-tQCC3hxnEZROtniuzQdzwz5WnthYjyzXIsE3dT_6CC5AiP8WiyrWhgLG9GCcnvpOkOUUVYSaRoeergab7duXxv374Vjim3e6-hX-F5JFwcYX7HaHqi86Ie-KwbNNm/s1600/corset+training+start+1-20-13+%25282+of+2%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjEJ3Z2oceHCM6EX-tQCC3hxnEZROtniuzQdzwz5WnthYjyzXIsE3dT_6CC5AiP8WiyrWhgLG9GCcnvpOkOUUVYSaRoeergab7duXxv374Vjim3e6-hX-F5JFwcYX7HaHqi86Ie-KwbNNm/s640/corset+training+start+1-20-13+%25282+of+2%2529.jpg" width="526" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This corset, day 1, give a comfortable 1 inch reduction to my natural waist.  I have 2 more inches I can squeeze, to close the gap in back, before moving to a more curvaceous corset.</td></tr></tbody></table>I plan to wear this until the edges in back are touching - there is about a 2 inch gap right now - and while that is happening, I will be working on an authentic Victorian corset, drafted by <a href="http://thelacedangel.blogspot.com/">Chrissy of The Laced Angel</a>, that includes all the hip and bust fullness necessary to achieve a considerably smaller waist.<br /><br />My overall intention with this experiment is not to deform my body, but to study the effects, and to attempt to <a href="http://americanduchess.blogspot.com/2013/01/v354-antique-and-vintage-proportion-you.html">improve my proportions</a> when wearing historical costumes.  I will report my progress regularly here. :-)

V357: Beginning Corset Training - Day 1

My New Years Resolution for 2013 is to experiment with corset training.  Nothing crazy.  Nothing extreme. I'm just curious about the eff...

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V353: 1920s Knickers Pattern

Hi all!  <a href="http://vintagevisions27.blogspot.com/">Miss Emily, of My Vintage Visions Blog</a>, sent over this adorbs little original 1920s knickers pattern.  Aren't these just sweet?  /want/<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtQCaLs6NQsEj29zEsL_5F4gbot9bsmwlRLlANJRp7rc2R5mwL4e_mZSQs-lJDuA-X5h1036lYfcSuBIBfPxyv_YfGcmdYdyivRF4Xr8jIr6DeQKwFkkYtApmFwa84xW4V4xD4N4MK8iUN/s1600/1920s+knickers.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtQCaLs6NQsEj29zEsL_5F4gbot9bsmwlRLlANJRp7rc2R5mwL4e_mZSQs-lJDuA-X5h1036lYfcSuBIBfPxyv_YfGcmdYdyivRF4Xr8jIr6DeQKwFkkYtApmFwa84xW4V4xD4N4MK8iUN/s1600/1920s+knickers.jpg" /></a></div><br />I'm off to cut my hair like the illustrated model on the pattern there.  Maybe I'll make some knickers when I get back, and run around the house singing "Chicago" show tunes, teehee!

V353: 1920s Knickers Pattern

Hi all!   Miss Emily, of My Vintage Visions Blog , sent over this adorbs little original 1920s knickers pattern.  Aren't these just swee...

Read more »

V351: How To Make the Simplest 1920s Slip

Yesterday I showed you some original 1920s slips, and now today it's time to show you the results, as promised, of my own little project.<br /><br />Here is my finished slip - the successful one:<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhWIDgb5MXln5EgoQlvVcBa1nO_dZfMiozi8Oxup1l-0BPS2ZryXz4BBVJfk4Opi1sv-HyTOI6Abkg4OpFBgEwuFpDdyCqQA4lDoOzXUNtNuUVL2wwbVtnTBGKztArC8m6hCaB-hgHWi9z/s1600/1920s+slip+(1+of+3).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhWIDgb5MXln5EgoQlvVcBa1nO_dZfMiozi8Oxup1l-0BPS2ZryXz4BBVJfk4Opi1sv-HyTOI6Abkg4OpFBgEwuFpDdyCqQA4lDoOzXUNtNuUVL2wwbVtnTBGKztArC8m6hCaB-hgHWi9z/s640/1920s+slip+(1+of+3).jpg" width="426" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div>Boring? Yes.  And yet I'm dang proud of this, primarily because my first attempt suffered from bad fabric choice (yep, I'm still making rookie mistakes):<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIW_kQkrsdVKMbv7TogxRlMx9TdtoK-3mdw40NYFdIIMeV2SBk3IqUjWbpXP7uetHKGvfJKTyOM3i9367hr9Ui7Q7ynbkADH0FdUJd2KMtSjbqPzJ7jAqg_HCoDurK1CHj_euLL9j6wPlQ/s1600/1920s+slip+(3+of+3).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIW_kQkrsdVKMbv7TogxRlMx9TdtoK-3mdw40NYFdIIMeV2SBk3IqUjWbpXP7uetHKGvfJKTyOM3i9367hr9Ui7Q7ynbkADH0FdUJd2KMtSjbqPzJ7jAqg_HCoDurK1CHj_euLL9j6wPlQ/s320/1920s+slip+(3+of+3).jpg" width="270" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Horror! The Horror!</td></tr></tbody></table>Ladies, make your 1920s slips out of very thin, drapey, soft, silky fabrics like silk charmeuse.  Do *not* make your slips out of bridal satin.  Ever.  No.  Bad.  You don't want body...you want slinky drape.  You may be tempted to the modest opacity and slick surface of a satin, but resist!<br /><br />Now, onto the pattern.  Luckily, 1920s slips are geometric.  There is little to no shaping, and though godets and gathered sides were common, you can make a slip from simple gored panels, like I'm going to show you right now.  You just need a little patience, perhaps some courage, and some light math skills.<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcz1OlmGv501K0PIoEuuBise0OYyc777ZAoJP9TkZSHTaQz9W7Gcb1iuATbHOGSWjdQNgZuEbnBz170wn_JGKcAG7HBoL-WG97USy_1Ox0VWt6Sc7HPLKasvS7y_dgdXeh9FlHAZqqmGs9/s1600/1920s+slip+pattern+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="474" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcz1OlmGv501K0PIoEuuBise0OYyc777ZAoJP9TkZSHTaQz9W7Gcb1iuATbHOGSWjdQNgZuEbnBz170wn_JGKcAG7HBoL-WG97USy_1Ox0VWt6Sc7HPLKasvS7y_dgdXeh9FlHAZqqmGs9/s640/1920s+slip+pattern+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">*The front and back piece are the same, yippee!  Also, very important - you MUST add ease, especially to the hip.  You do not want the slip to stack up on your hips, but to hang gracefully down, unhindered.  Add at least 2" of ease over your hip measurement.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXXuTbBrjYUjEkEjOuBoLHcvEuZW7UIijQ0zMKM4rfrbLP6AZ5I8zkIh51KUrU-iBqXGf6O_SK8DCsYqfkmgeMOXq-zNrlLDGzNwuqg3aSKSREQ9zZ83QnpHnLTdU66EbRxacotQruRYa2/s1600/1920s+slip+pattern+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="488" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXXuTbBrjYUjEkEjOuBoLHcvEuZW7UIijQ0zMKM4rfrbLP6AZ5I8zkIh51KUrU-iBqXGf6O_SK8DCsYqfkmgeMOXq-zNrlLDGzNwuqg3aSKSREQ9zZ83QnpHnLTdU66EbRxacotQruRYa2/s640/1920s+slip+pattern+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">*Make sure the strip for the top binding is the same length as your high bust + ease measurement. Larger ladies, you may need to join two strips together if you fabric is not very wide.</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLmrgOI9FAh8uL47AEBX8xhKkI0VMakkwrF-E1tabSD_i9NCLkMZU46eZLzN20DIP_Rx_C7zH9QJGCuYMfy15cUwavXoAhR9O3HVydTglGXevae9IrBNOg-2cwjY050tz-0STXtzcz5yGZ/s1600/1920s+slip+pattern+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="532" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLmrgOI9FAh8uL47AEBX8xhKkI0VMakkwrF-E1tabSD_i9NCLkMZU46eZLzN20DIP_Rx_C7zH9QJGCuYMfy15cUwavXoAhR9O3HVydTglGXevae9IrBNOg-2cwjY050tz-0STXtzcz5yGZ/s640/1920s+slip+pattern+3.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">*At this stage, if you wish to add pintucks or lacey bits to the slip, go for it (pintucks before the top binding!).  Pintucks in particular are a good way to take up any excess in high bust.  Try your slip on and see if anything needs to be taken out.  Pintucks were used in both the front and back on original slips.  You will see I have 4 pintucks on the front of my finished slip.</td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyUIUHn8a49swGdmITOXWWWJMUuKoP-GXjemxeXe4yZqrQBpctysWq9xpTpDkMZshAH7Dj2rBfenbRa0Zl9j-8jbmRCZfAkRqFmVHGxtA0mZG7iKiMIxvJULy0PJjN67xXwN5lpWQCIdpK/s1600/1920s+slip+pattern+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="508" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyUIUHn8a49swGdmITOXWWWJMUuKoP-GXjemxeXe4yZqrQBpctysWq9xpTpDkMZshAH7Dj2rBfenbRa0Zl9j-8jbmRCZfAkRqFmVHGxtA0mZG7iKiMIxvJULy0PJjN67xXwN5lpWQCIdpK/s640/1920s+slip+pattern+4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br />Once again, this is just the way I constructed my slip.  It is neither right nor wrong, and if you have a preferred method of doing things, by all means, stitch in the way that is comfortable for you!<br /><br />Also please note that, in general, 1920s slips are most flattering to boyish figures with small busts.  Many curvaceous women in the '20s wore corsets, girdles, and bust-binding devices, to achieve the tubular silhouette.  If you try on your snazzy new slip and find it horribly unflattering, you may wish to bind your chest (an Ace bandage works), to flatten it.  Remember, too, that this is an undergarment, and is serving a purpose - be sure to try your whole ensemble on together before determining if you love or hate your new slip. :-)

V351: How To Make the Simplest 1920s Slip

Yesterday I showed you some original 1920s slips, and now today it's time to show you the results, as promised, of my own little project...

Read more »

V350: 1920s Slips, Chemises, and Camisoles

I've been working on a 1920s slip to go under a semi-sheer beaded gown I purchased a short time ago.  Easy, right?<br /><br />Well, I'm on version two tonight, haha!  I have made one 1920s slip before, but despite doing an alright job on it, I made stupid mistakes this time around, hence the second go.<br /><br />Firstly, though, here are a bevvy of undies, from The Met:<br /><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://media-cache-ec6.pinterest.com/upload/274015958549733320_aH3dKUDw_c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://media-cache-ec6.pinterest.com/upload/274015958549733320_aH3dKUDw_c.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #211922; font-family: 'helvetica neue', arial, sans-serif; line-height: 17.53333282470703px; text-align: start;">The Met: Underwear, 1920s</span></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://media-cache-ec4.pinterest.com/upload/274015958549733289_Nt3aTTZB_c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://media-cache-ec4.pinterest.com/upload/274015958549733289_Nt3aTTZB_c.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #211922; font-family: 'helvetica neue', arial, sans-serif; line-height: 17.53333282470703px; text-align: start;">The Met: Chemise, 1920s</span></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://media-cache-lt0.pinterest.com/upload/274015958549733293_GVYWXTL9_c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://media-cache-lt0.pinterest.com/upload/274015958549733293_GVYWXTL9_c.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #211922; font-family: 'helvetica neue', arial, sans-serif; line-height: 17.53333282470703px; text-align: start;">The Met: Underwear, 1920</span></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://media-cache-ec6.pinterest.com/upload/274015958549733298_eFPnMbwX_c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://media-cache-ec6.pinterest.com/upload/274015958549733298_eFPnMbwX_c.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #211922; font-family: 'helvetica neue', arial, sans-serif; line-height: 17.53333282470703px; text-align: start;">The Met: Underwear, 1920s</span></td></tr></tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://media-cache0.pinterest.com/upload/274015958549733242_pzAGF4Lu_c.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://media-cache0.pinterest.com/upload/274015958549733242_pzAGF4Lu_c.jpg" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #211922; font-family: 'helvetica neue', arial, sans-serif; line-height: 17.53333282470703px; text-align: start;">The Met: Slip, 1920s</span></td></tr></tbody></table>Some of these are more ornate than others, and you will also notice that a couple of them are short - these were worn over little, lacy, matching knickers (how cute!).<br /><br />All of these slips and camisoles share characteristics, though: simple, straight necklines, and absolutely zero shaping.<br /><br />Slips of this period fall from the high bust, and flare ever so slightly over the hips, but not in a shapely way.  Width around the hips was achieved either by gored panels, gathers or pleats at the side seams, or godets at the side seams.  This little pattern shows the pleated/gathered side version:<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3256/3229637968_826e022760_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3256/3229637968_826e022760_b.jpg" /></a></div> <br />Making a slip for the '20s is deceptively difficult.  They tend to be quite unflattering, and weird to fit.  It is *essential* that you choose a thin, soft, opaque fabric like silk charmeuse, lest your slip stand out from your body like a potato sack.<br /><br />I will share with you my efforts tomorrow - both the failure and the revised, successful slip.

V350: 1920s Slips, Chemises, and Camisoles

I've been working on a 1920s slip to go under a semi-sheer beaded gown I purchased a short time ago.  Easy, right? Well, I'm on vers...

Read more »