My original plan for the trimmeries on my underskirt is as follows:
|Figuring out how much yardage I needed for each type of trim|
Before I could apply these trims, though, I had to mostly finish the skirt, and mark it for trim placement. I decided to do this mostly flat (although my waistband has been attached - you could do it completely flat, though, and do the darts and gathers last), measuring up from the bound hem, and marking each placement line in chalk.
|Lines marked in chalk|
Other deets - the whole skirt is lined in lightweight cotton muslin, with a foot of hair canvas at the hem for stability and weight. It weighs more-than-a-little, but the paper-thin Dupioni needed some structure beneath it, particularly to keep it from stressing too much at the top and hanging funny from the weight of the trims below.
One last bit before I run off to pleat 102 inches of flounce - the flutes! So...after my test piece, I went for the whole, huge, 190 inches of fluted trim. I discovered that the practice does take, well, practice - there are many factors to consider, such as how wet the fabric is, and how hot the plate and iron are. I initially used vinegar to set the pleats, but had better luck with spray starch. The next time I will use quite a lot more starch - it didn't hurt the silk at all, thank goodness. The biggest revelation, though, was the very last action - run a gathering stitch along the top edge of the flutes. It transforms them from "meh" to "holy-wow-flutes!" and keeps them in place when you go to sew them onto your garment. The gathering stitch is the key.
|Fluted trim, with the gathering stitch run along the top edge.|